Well folks!

Here I am standing in front of the West Door of the shrine of St. James in Santiago de Compostela. It has been a long last few days and it must seem quite a while since my last post. Yet, internet access in the last few days has been limited and I have to admit that the end has seemed just one day further away!

I have a whole host of emotions really bubbling up at once - from being thankful for a safe arrival which at times in the early days seemed impossible; to some regrets at not seeing some of those whom I have travelled with again so soon; as well as a great deal of gratitude to those of you whose prayers I am absolutely sure have been the means by which I have managed at times to simply trudge onward when it felt as if I should just give it up! So thank you all of you for your kind words and thoughts - they have been the means by which I have achieved this journey. I look forward to seeing some of you on my return and others as and when time permits!

Until then, take care!

Scott

Galicia and beyond

Hi folks!
Well the feet seem to be standing up to the new boots and I do not have the problem I was having with the previous shoes. In all my preparation reading I did not know you had to buy shows two sizes bigger than normal to allow your feet to swell! As a result for about 150 miles I have been walking having dislocated the second and third toes of my left foot - not something children should try at home! I am glad to say that my feet are slowly restoring themsleves and adjusting to the new footwear!
I have entered Galicia which is the mountainous region in which Santiago lies. I have to say that the climb into the area was like walking back home. The hills are bedecked with purple heather and are rolling and lush in a way that you would maybe not expect within Spain. This area is the Celtic area of Spain brought most forcibly to mind with the bars playing bagpipe music of the region.
I have to say that as I am now entering the last 100 miles I am beginning to have thoughts about returning home. The environment is adding to this as for the last week or so the weather has been pretty grey and changeable - gone is the sunshine of the first 10-12 days. I feel very much that my last few days of walking has been very similar to walking on similar days back home.
As I begin my thoughts of returning home I am aware of a growing desire within to do so. I am looking forward to seeing familiar people and to catch up with those whom I have had not much chance to speak within the last few weeks. Equally, I begin to realise the need for a return to my own community - to my place in the midst of life. When leading the pilgrimage on Iona several years ago, I remember speaking on arrival at the Hermit´s Cell of the individual´s need at times for withdrawal and solitude. How the demands of life and community living often force each of us to need time to reflect to become more aware of where we are and in some cases to deal with more personal issues and pain. Yet, after such times there was the need to return to our place of community and of life to carry on the struggle of living.
I feel this way now and it is a growing force of feeling leading me in some ways to be tempted to rush its dawning. Yet, the great reality of pilgrimage is that I am still many miles away from home and several days walking. I cannot rush what will ineitably come, instead I must centre myself within the process of the day´s walking that are ahead and so to make the most of each day as it presents itself. It is to easy to dream away the opportunties of each day in the pursuit of future expectations. So, I will take each remaining days of this week and do my best not to dream too much of journies home, but rather to make the best of each days journeying as it happens.
Hope you are all well and I´ll hopefully see you soon!
Scott

Pilgrimage or Pleasure Trip?

Hi folks!
I have travelled onward as I hinted at in the last blog and have begun my final stage from Ponfarrada - an amazing city dominated by an ancient Knight´s Templar Castle. I am 45 kilometres beyond there now and almost about to enter Galicia (the region in which Santiago rests).
However, in the last few weeks there has been a growing series of questions growing in my mind and they relate to what has become one of the main purposes of my doing this pilgrimage. When I looked into this route I read in a book that in 1986 - 2,500 pilgrims completed the route. In 1999 that number had increased to over 175,000 pilgrims. On seeing those figures I was intrigued as I am sure all of us are aware that "spirituality" is in vogue. What was interesting for me was the rate of growth within the route - was this ancient medieval pilgrimage route at the head of some great spiritual rebirth? I wanted to come on this journey to find out and to see if there were any lessons for the church to learn in the process.
Having travelled here, I have met several people who are clearly here for deep personal reasons; one person coming to terms with the death of his father; another wanting to leave behind a few difficult years behind and looking forward to a new career and beginnings; another man dealing with the deep loss of his wife from cancer. All of these people are for me examples of a genuine searching and questioning of life and all that it offers.
Yet, despite this there are a large number of people who it seems are on this trip for nothing other than an extended walking holiday or even endurance event. These people seem to rise at the earliest point in the morning (usually at about 4am!!!!) to get ready and head out on the day´s recommended stretch to get to the Albergue´s first and secure their own bed - regardless of those who might walk slower or take more time to reflect on the deeper reasons for their journey.
There are two amazing men from the Netherlands who have walked here from outside their front door - pushing a little cart. They have walked for 74 days now and have covered hundreds of miles. They speak warmly of the their treatment in France, Belgium etc. But, since joining the route in St. Jean Pied de Port they have found it almost nigh impossible to find a bed sometimes.
One of them even told me of a bus trip which was dropping people off about 5km from the Albergue and then picking the people up at an arranged point beyond the next morning and driving further along!
I suspected when I looked at the figures that there would be an element of entrepreneurial ingenuity behind the growth in numbers, but sadly I feel that this extent has rather tarnished the whole route within my mind. Yet, I suppose this is simply is what to be expected of our "market-focused" modern world. In every element of life, there is someone making money out of it - even the burgeoning realm of spirituality.
In the last few days I have been told and have read of the terrible disasters in Myanmar and China in which literally as I understand 50,000 lives have perished. This pilgrimage can so easily seem an indulgent activity in the light of such human suffering and loss of life. Gerry Hughes, that great spiritual writer has said that the purpose of all spirituality is to enable people to pursue holiness. This is not pious, contemplative musing, but rather the pursuit of God in the whole of our living in order that we might echo the compassion of God to the world. This pilgrimage will only have true meaning in the future if each participant seeks to take the trouble walk its path in the pursuit of this holiness.
In all the beauty around me in the last few weeks - in the people I have met, in the gentle loving conversations which I have shared, in the laughter, in the breath-taking vistas - in all of this I feel more drawn to the wonder of God than I did before setting out. I don´t know if I am any closer to being "holy" - God knows I think that is a long way off - but I am more deeply committed to this beautiful world and the people within it. In my struggling with pain I have insight into a greater degree for those whose lives are filled with pain. So, I weep today for those beautiful lives lost in this divided world and ask more fully of myself, where must I put myself that I might seek to show more compassion to the wider world? I pray that in the days remaining God might direct my answering of that question.

A Grueling Day!

Today has probably been one of the worst within the journey of the Camino. It began with poor weather - not unlike walking back home in Scotland with driving rain and wind. The routes across country turned into a quagmire and it was a good ten miles walking before we encountered any sign of civilisation. The guide book which I am following wanted to celebrate the natural tracks and the solitude - my feet wanted anything but the next sharp rocks jabbing upward into the already forming blisters underneath!!

When finally we completed our 17 miles or so I felt as if all my feet had turned into one large blister! I hobbled into the Albergue and almost screamed when I finally dared to remove the socks. So, today was something down to good old fashioned sticking at it despite the pain. I have to admit there were moments where I had those obvious thoughts - what on earth Scott do you think you are doing? Surely, you could have looked into spirituality in the comfort of some retreat centre somewhere?

Yet, the other day in one of the Albergues there was a T-shirt which displayed some foot souls blistered and taped together alongside the words: "No pain! No glory!" It was the most tempting piece of marketing that I have seen so far.

This journey demands the very all of our being and there are clear times where we have to accept the body´s prompting. One of our team, Naz, had to leave the other day as his time was running out and he was having tremendous pain from blisters within his feet which he picked up in the first day - how he managed to walk so far with the pain reveals his strength of character. We all miss him dearly, yet he accepted his body´s prompting and is now resting in the beautiful city of Barcelona.

There are so many people of different ages on this walk and all with there various deep needs of soul. The journey has become so much to them that it has become almost something which could become an obsession. There is a real wisdom here, that needs to be considered - sometimes human obsession to achieve blinds us to the immediate needs of our own bodies and the world around us. I am a couple of days behind schedule due to baggage delays and having to rest somewhat in Burgos - it will mean a day travelling ahead and missing some distance to catch up, but I am not seeing this as a kind of failure. Instead I feel that listening to my body and seeking to respond to its needs is a deeper lesson for me.

The picture included is of the journey through the Pyrenees!

Leon Bound

We have moved into the flatter part of the walk - hallelujah!!!
In the last couple of days we have walked across the Mesetta which are a series of highland plateaus planted lushly with crops and vines. There is no-one around for many a mile and our only companions are the singing larks that circle the sky above us. In the isolation of these tracks that wander over the flat plateaus you are drawn deeply into your own reasons for making this journey.
For me the last few years have been a period of transition and change. A time in which I have come to deal with the pain of human divorce and also encounter the joy of returning - for it has been a joy - to ministry within the Church. In the last few weeks in the conversations I have had with those whom I have met making this journey I have discovered that my own personal care is for human beings. When I reflect on my time as a detective I recall that my concern was not with the detecting of crime but more an interest in the choices made so often by some who have no other choices to make. Don´t take me wrong in this, there were clearly those whom I dealt with who were recidivist in their being and they sought only to take or harm. However, there were a large number of those whom I worked with who were involved in pretty crime due to feeding their drug habit. Its this concern for people that makes me now clear to my commitment to ministry.
As to the letting go of the shame and associated feelings of divorce - well that is something which I have been reflecting on in this walking. I realise that the time has clearly come to let go of the regrets and shameful feelings associated with the failure of a marriage. The future of my life lies only ahead of me as the steps leading me onward to Santiago. Throughout the last couple of weeks I have had to post home excess baggage that was simply weighing me down and making every step more of an effort. In doing so I have freed myself of almost 7-8kg of weight! You have no idea how light my bag now feels when I lift it on to my shoulders. This letting go of excess baggage has caused me to realise that I have feelings and regrets that have been hanging around for too long - like my excess 7-8kg they need to go. Whilst, its not so easy to visit a post office and put them in a box, I do realise that it is time to let some of these things go.
I have to say that this walk has begun to take over my thinking and my experience as you would expect. It has been a fantastic journey so far and I look forward to the future lessons it has yet to share. I hope all of you are well and I´ll keep on sauntering!
Leon is only 5 days away!
Cheers for now!
Scott

Beautiful Burgos and still Sauntering

Dear All,
I know some of you may have thought that I had fallen off the face of the earth as it has been so long since I last posted any updates! I have to say that I am writing this from having arrived in the city of Burgos (250-270 km in).
It has been a long time since I last wrote and I have to say that process has been an incredible one. The shear physicality of this journey is seriously taking it would seem at times every ounce of stamina and will-power to just keep going on. Everyone who is walking this stage with me has had problems in some way that have affected their walking - be it blisters, knee and ankle problems, etc. George MacLeod wrote many years ago that "a demanding common task alone builds community" and the process of making this journey seems to be proving the truth of that statement daily. For the links that are forming between those of us walking here are deep and very personal. As time progresses each of us reveals further reasons behind our journeying and seeking this pilgrimage within this point of our lives.
As I think about pilgrimage and spirituality I am struck that the commitment to make 20-30km walking each day is something that reduces our focus to the simple process of putting one foot in front of another. This simplifying of life and the removing of so many of the other worries has made me become very aware of my own moods and feelings and how these can have an affect on my walking for the day. There have been mornings when I have got up and as well as adjusting to trying to walk properly I have an equally deeper battle within as I feel fatigued and not really in the mood to carry on. Yet, conversely there are other mornings when things start off well and I find myself half-way through the days walking before even thinking about it.
A few months ago I was walking with Kathryn and we had a beautiful butterfly land on the ground before us before gently fluttering off. I made the passing comment at the time that in some indigenous spiritualities, such a thing might have been interpreted as a sign of God being with us on the walk. When I arrived at Lorgrono a few days ago I was seriously at a point where I wondered if I could carry on as my feet were so sore! All of a sudden I was surrounded by butterflies and in that moment I felt strongly that they spoke of the prayers being offered on my behalf which were managing to keep me going. It was a very vivid moment of connection and beauty and I felt greatly held in the midst of my struggles. There were some tears and I felt amazing approaching the city I had doubted arriving within.
Equally, this walk has taken us through so many contrasting landscapes and the weather has been great. There have been dry, rocky valleys and lush vineyards and rolling fields - it is truly stimulating process of contrast and beauty. In the course of my walking I have seen so many beautiful panoramas that it will be while before I really can process the fullness of this journey.
For now, let me leave it there and I´ll be in touch again soon!
Cheers!
Scott

Stunning Pamplona

Today´s walk was a much needed shorter day and one that was easily accomplished by early hours. I am in the city of Pamplona, one of Spain's´s beautiful medieval cities. It happens to be the city that caused injury to Ignatius of Loyolla leading to the founding of the Jesuit Order. I have to say that I can see that whilst some of his daydreams were of outdoing the saints, I can see why he wanted to reclaim this beautiful city for the Spanish people - it is breathtaking, almost like a mini-Barcelona.
I have met some amazing people who each have the various reasons for doing this pilgrimage. For some it is the chance to complete an interesting part of their trip to Spain as they tour Europe to more personal reasons for some including preparing for a new professional life and others dealing with more personal reasons.
One of these amazing people said today that he was amazed how in the focusing of getting from A to B and the need for basic things like water has made him so aware of so many aspects of modern life that we take for granted and that possibly we do not need.
This journey is one that is deeply stimulating me with all that I am seeing and all that I am feeling - ranging from times of exhilaration to moments of worry as to how am I going to get to Pamplona to moments of shear joy when you share a good meal with your fellow pilgrims in the evening. Also, there is so much laughter and care for those on the journey with you it is quite an amazing process to be involved within.
Well, I´m not sure when the next posting will be, but until then thank you for your comments and keep me in your prayers!
Scott